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海南印象(一)

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发表于 2018-1-31 21:34:34 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
第一次来海南,顺便记下几个文字,以作留念。
今天下午飞到海口,天下着雨,一股冷潮席卷全中国,连祖国的最南端都无法幸免,接车的师傅告诉我们,今天是海口最冷的时候,气温在摄氏六度左右,相比莆田出发时的温度,还是略高一些,到酒店时,我减去一件衣服。

人们提到海南的时候总是会说起三亚,似乎海口这个海南的省会城市总是被大家所遗忘,其实海口是海南省的政治、经济、文化中心,海口也是海南岛交通的总枢纽。如果说一座城市可以带给我们最初感动的话,那么了解它的历史一定会触动我们心中最柔软的地方。下午5点多,我们决定徒步到海口骑楼小吃街和骑楼老街逛逛,一路上,与我们明显不同的是路边随风摇曳的椰树,还有椰树上挂着一串串椰子,我总担心椰子掉下来,那后果会很严重,或许是多虑了,但总有一丝不安。

海口骑楼老街是我国历史文化名街,因为横跨人行道而得名,与厦门中山街类似,因为南方夏季炎热而且雨水很多,骑楼这样的建筑能防晒和躲雨的作用,而这种墙挨着墙、楼挨着楼的设计也让大家彼此像一个大家庭一样,骑楼的楼层一般只有两三层高,下面是商铺上层是居住的房屋,随处可以看到古朴的廊柱、露台、窗楣、浮雕,带给人们优雅的古韵和艺术的美感。

在这片老城区有着中西方文化的交融,也可以感受到海口老城的样子,看到海口百姓的市井生活,这里斑驳的老墙依然散发着南洋的迤逦风情,骑楼老街成为了这里曾经繁华喧嚣的标志,站在这里,可以想象出南洋回国的老华侨们当年的一段传奇人生故事,一段致富心酸传奇。虽然随着时光推移和历史变迁,当年的风光不再,有凋零之感,但历史陈迹仍然可见。

骑楼老街的尽头是钟楼,在椰树的拥抱下,屹立在海甸溪岸边,清水红砖墙面,顶端四周筑八支箭簇尖角,具有欧洲哥特式建筑风格,已成为海口标志建筑。据说早在清咸丰初期,海口被辟为通商口岸,来往的船只和客商逐渐增多,因没有统一的计时设施,给出行带来诸多不便。民国十八年,祖籍文昌抱罗的周成海发起集资建钟楼,统一全市时间。其时以总商会名义,发动海内外琼藉商户和侨胞捐资兴建。


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