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狗年春节闽西游(3)

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发表于 2018-2-21 17:21:27 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
闽西游第三站:永定土楼,知道永定土楼是从“福建民居”邮票开始,在外地念大学期间,那时通信还不发达,与远方的家人、朋友交流主要是通过书信往来,鸿雁传书,当时邮电部发行一套全国各地的民居邮票,福建民居以土楼为代表,虽来自福建,但何为土楼一无所知,前几年自驾云水谣,游览了南靖土楼,才第一次真正感受到土楼独特建筑风格。

来永定,一定要游览土楼王-承启楼,看过电影《大鱼海棠》,整部影片,满满的都是中国风,而主人公椿的家族生活的地方就是这座土楼,它规模巨大,造型奇特,古色古香,天圆地方的格局,古味浓郁的木柱石桩,点缀其中的红色灯笼,气势恢宏的画面震撼人心,到处都充满浓郁的乡土气息,土楼成了电影里最经典的文化符号。





承启楼,从明崇祯年间(公元1628-1644年)破土奠基,至清康熙四十八年(公元1709年)竣工落成,位于永定县古竹乡高北村,历经沧桑三百年,鼎盛时期住过800多人。楼门两边是一对楹联,是楼名的藏头联,“承前祖德勤和俭,启后孙谋读与耕。”承启楼以它高大、厚重、粗犷、雄伟的建筑风格和庭园院落端庄丽脱的造型艺术,融与如诗的山乡神韵,让人叹为观止。与北京天坛、敦煌莫高窟等中国名胜一起竞放异彩,但它不像故宫等建筑只是历史的见证,它更像是活着的回忆,时至今日,仍有人居住。



永定土楼以种姓聚族而群居特点和它的建造特色都与客家人的历史有密切相关,客家人原是中原一带汉民,因战乱、饥荒等各种原因被迫南迁,至南宋时历近千年,辗转万里,在闽粤赣三省边区形成客家民系。在他们被迫离乡背井,流离他乡的过程中,经历了千辛万苦,他们都有深切的体会,不论是长途跋涉的流离失所,还是新到一处人生地不熟的居地,许多困难都得依靠自己人团结互助、同心协力去解决,共度难关。因此,他们每到一处,本姓本家人总要聚居在一起。同时,由于客家人居住的大多是偏僻的山区或深山密林之中,当时不但建筑材料匮乏,豺狼虎豹、盗贼嘈杂,加上惧怕当地人的袭扰,客家人便营造“抵御性”的城堡式建筑住宅——土楼。土楼,是客家族人的家,是他们的归宿,他们在这儿日出而作,日落而息,守护着自己内心的净土。
土楼在偏僻的山涧默默地经历着岁月的洗涤,也忠实地记录着尘世的种种故事,一部土楼史,便是一部乡村家族史。当遥远的岁月成为往事,而这浸润着客家人血与泪的土楼,成了客家人情感世界的象征符号,它凝聚了客家人整体的心灵感喟,包含了客家人经历的岁月沧桑,是飘泊他乡客家人梦牵魂绕的呼唤。


随附:客家美食、天子温泉,都是永定特色,不可错过。







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